Toast!

carrot-and-lemon-pate-on-toast-with-feta-and-pea-shoots

It’s a basic of life, but toast can be stupendous when you put your mind to its topping, as Anna Hedworth, aka The Grazer, proves

I’ve written before about my love of things on toast and since opening my Cook House I’ve been working on my repertoire.

On toast has become a staple menu item, with changing toppings week to week depending on what’s in season and ideas I’ve spotted in books, magazines or on my travels.

I came home from Mallorca with a couple of sobrassada in my suitcase this week. I’m not entirely sure that’s allowed so don’t tell, but that made up this week’s toast – spicy chorizo-type sausage specific to the Balearics spread on hot toast, topped with creamy homemade ricotta, good olive oil and some dressed pea shoots.

We’re talking about an open sandwich in basic terms. I find it a lot more interesting than thinking of sandwich fillings and I find inspiration from around the world. Every country has its own variation, whether it’s called a taco, a pizza, pintxo, or chiccetti.

The ones here are ideas more than recipes. You’re looking for balance, so think sweet, salty, bitter and sour and see where you end up.

[one_third]Tart!

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Smoked leeks on toast with whipped feta and black sesame
I was inspired by the Trial Shift boys when they took over Cook House for a pop-up event a few months ago and I found them cooking their aubergines in the embers of my wood-burning stove. Kicking myself that I hadn’t thought of using it to cook myself, as soon as they handed the keys back I stuck some leeks into a roaring fire, totally incinerating the outside. I removed them and left them to cool and then carefully removed all the black outer edges and tore off ribbons of soft sweet smoked leek. They went into a bowl to be mixed with a dash of extra virgin olive oil and a pinch of salt and I served this on toast with feta cheese which I whip up with Greek yoghurt and extra virgin olive oil until it takes on the consistency of cream cheese. Spread onto toast, leeks piled gently on top and scattered with toasted black sesame seeds, the sweet smoky leeks with the salty cheese and toasted nutty sesame is delicious, and this is probably my favourite toast invention so far.
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[one_third]Tart!
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Carrot and lemon pate on toast with feta and pea shoots
I have been making a carrot, lemon and yoghurt pâté for a while now. I discovered it when I was putting together a vegetarian Middle Eastern-style mezze supper last year. I made tons of different lavosh crackers topped with different seeds and herbs and wanted lots of tasty, colourful dips to go with them.
For this, simply chop 500g carrots into large chunks and roast at 200C/Gas6 with about 6 cloves of garlic still in their skins and lots of olive oil until the carrots are soft – about 20 mins. Then pop the garlic out of its skins and blitz with 2 big spoons of yoghurt, the zest and juice of half a lemon and a pinch of salt. It’s a lovely sweet dip with a rich hint of roast garlic and sharp lemon.
Sprinkle with crumbled feta or goat’s cheese, and top with a pile of dressed fresh pea shoots or rocket. The rich sweet pâté is delicious with the sharp salt cheese and fresh shoots.
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[one_third]Whipped feta on toast with pear, pea shoots and toasted seeds
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Whipped feta on toast with pear, pea shoots and toasted seeds
The whipped feta base in the recipe on the far left is good with lots of toppings, and as it’s so salty and tart my favourite partner for it is something a little bit sweet. I’ve found a popular menu item to be fresh sliced pear with pea shoots or rocket and toasted seeds, sometimes hazelnuts or a bit of chopped mint too.
I have tried it with pickled grapes and mint too, which is delicious; sharp, sweet and tasty. I also tried sliced blood oranges with toasted walnuts. Normal oranges would work too, of course, and that was a pretty good brunch dish, I think.
Or you could try fresh peppery radish with mint, black pepper and ricotta. Or ricotta, slow-roast tomatoes and toasted cumin seeds. Or crushed peas and broad beans with lemon, mint and crumbled goats cheese. We’re in a good season for lovely fresh toppings so I’ll keep working on my repertoire!

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Read more from The Grazer at the-grazer.blogspot.com and try her food at Cook House Ouse Street, Newcastle

NE1 2PF, www.cookhouse.org

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