Dinner review: Time to relax at The Tempus

We visit The Tempus at Charlton Hall, Northumberland

The Tempus food

We all need to escape every so often, particularly these last few years, and in our opinion there is no better place to head than Northumberland. While getting out into the fresh air is all we need to refresh ourselves, finding a wonderful bolthole improves the experience no end.

A stone’s throw from the A1, yet a million miles away from the rush of life at work and home, The Tempus at Charlton Hall is one of those places – a celebration of maximalism with its shell pink Le Creuset tableware, and fabulous wallpapers and textiles, which could have been dreamt up by Lewis Carroll.

Those of us from the North East know this is a friendly place, and the service and menu in The Orangery is just that. Our welcome set the tone for the whole evening, and the team were chatty, helpful and excellent.

The menu is equally welcoming – affording those with an adventurous appetite something that hits hard with flavours far from the traditions of Northumberland – such as the excellent Indonesian crispy belly pork starter with its fantastic sweet and salty sauce and crispy onion garnish. For the more traditional diner, an indulgent chicken liver parfait was finished with a clever rosemary and peach gel.

Plated for weary explorers and travelers from distant lands alike, our main courses were generously portioned. The beer-battered haddock was enormous and done as well as we’ve seen outside of the best coastal chippies. The autumnal flavours of the slowcooked featherblade of beef were a delight on a dark night. Wrapped in puff pastry, the wheel of tender beef was improved further by a great gravy. Served on the side and brimming with flavours from the onions and mushrooms which had been left in the serving pan in all their glory, it added a brilliant harmonising finish to a plate with a lot of elements and textures that could have been unruly without its presence. The gravy also proved just what we needed to inspire us to finish the chips from the plate on the other side of the table.

Winter evenings out allow us time, and excuses, for dessert and what is a winter night in Northumberland without a crumble? This one was packed with apples enlivened with a good helping of cinnamon – and it sent us to bed very full and very happy.

A short, but special, mention must also be made to the rooms at The Tempus – which are as unique as the dining room and make this a fantastic place to escape the real world, even if it’s just for a little while.

Dinner for two, plus drinks and service charge, was around £110.

The Tempus at Charlton Hall Estate, Chathill, NE67 5DZ, tel 01665 579 173, www.thetempus.co.uk

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