There can be few better meals on a bitterly cold winter’s night than lamb washed down with a robust Argentinean Malbec. And the lamb at Rockliffe Hall’s flagship Orangery restaurant doesn’t disappoint. It could have been pinker for my liking, although that’s my fault for asking for medium rare. It is, however, melt-in-the-mouth, cut-with-a-fork tender.
While the French have always prized Agneau de pré-salé, British salt marsh lamb is now enjoying a deserved surge in popularity. Flavoursome and sweet, the meat is leaner than regular lamb. At Rockliffe, it’s served up with sweet potato, and it is impossible to resist a Gratin Dauphinois side dish to soak up all that lovely lamb jus.
One of Rockliffe’s strengths is its vast wine menu, expertly overseen by sommelier Grace Matterson, established vineyards sitting alongside unusual varieties like an Israeli chardonnay or the Chateau Musar blend from Lebanon. We, however, play it safe with the Malbec from the Mendoza region of Argentina, the perfect partner for my lamb.
While it can sometimes be tricky to find good vegetarian options when it comes to fine dining, at The Orangery, my other half opts for the herb gnocchi with duck egg, wild mushrooms and hollandaise. The gnocchi is light and fluffy, with a texture akin to Asian dim sum dumplings.
Main courses had followed starters of seared scallops served with curried couscous and a posh cauliflower bhaji, along with a twice-baked cheddar soufflé served up with a refreshingly unusual rocket sorbet.
Already full, but always with room for dessert, I go for the dark chocolate molleaux, which reveals suitably gooey molten chocolate within.
But, the real star of the end-of-meal show is the cheese board, and the star of the cheese board is the Mont D’Or, delightfully pungent and served warm from the oven along with spiced grape chutney.
It rounds off a great meal. In fact, the only criticism I could make was the length of time we waited in the cocktail bar before being shown to our table. Although, that did give us the chance to sip a couple of sneaky Bombay Sapphire and tonics before we head into the dining room and our waiter was suitably apologetic. And standards at Rockliffe are only set to rise. As we visit, it was just announced that Michelin-starred Richard Allen has been appointed to take over the running of The Orangery.
Allen (pictured) has held a Michelin star since 2011 as executive chef of the Tassili restaurant at the five-star Grand Jersey Hotel. He joins Rockliffe along with Eamonn Elliott, who was previously general manager at the same hotel.
Together, the pair have promised to, “set The Orangery apart from any other restaurant in the North of England.” When you consider the great restaurants the North has, including James Close’s Raby Hunt in nearby Summerhouse, that’s a lofty ambition indeed.
But, it does give us the perfect excuse for a return visit to find out if they’ve been successful in their aims.
Hurworth-on-Tees, Darlington, County Durham DL2 2DU. tel 01325 729999 www.rockliffehall.com
