As I write, one Rosie McGlade, food writer of this parish, is sitting next to me enjoying a lovely slice of roast duck with a hunk of bread and butter.
It was supposed to be the dog’s, but she claims it’s too good for a canine; even tastier cold than it was when she first tasted it last night at the Brasserie at Malmaison and a fine soother for the slight headache she is suffering.
If I’m honest, we were thoroughly badly behaved last night without actually meaning to be, the lovely wine waiter flirting us into Hendrick’s gin and tonic (is there any greater thing?), several glasses of Sauvignon Blanc (I lose track, hic!) and a bottle of dessert wine, entirely unnecessary but absolutely delicious.
It was a joint birthday treat. She and I born 12 months and a day apart, we have an annual lunch or supper out somewhere smart to celebrate. Just us two. No kids. No husbands. Just us.
Mrs McGlade offset the effects of the second G&T by nibbling on delicious little pork cheek fritters which were served with toasted walnuts. She said the nuts were particularly divine, adding that everyone should toast walnuts, particularly at this time of year, so I will.
Her duck, which was also from the specials board, wasn’t as pink as promised, but it was lovely. She did that thing, asking for a doggy bag for her collie Nellie, but it seems Nellie is going hungry, her mistress having decided a duck sandwich will soothe her sore head.
The Mal does that to you. It’s such a treat; a purple velvet cocoon where you can hide away in flattering low light that makes you feel you’re on the VIP list and tempt you to do things you shouldn’t on a Wednesday night.
The food is perfectly fitting for the occasion. You’d probably have to say the gorgeous vegetables made the dinner. The Vallum Kitchen Garden carrots and parsnips were young and tender and roasted in honey. The mash was the best – the best – either of us have ever tasted, and the spinach was so lightly wilted it just melted away.
My star of the show was the fritto misto (light and lovely), while the sea bass had VIP treat written all over it.
The pear tarte tatin was fragrant and pretty, and the crème brûlée achieved that rare thing – it was properly French.This new menu is a real treat of fresh flavours and prime produce with nibbles, starters, mains, a grill, burgers and sides. It’s just lovely – a treat, as I say, and just a bit VIP. Just don’t tell the dog.
Malmaison, 104 Quayside, Newcastle, NE1 3DX. www.malmaison.com
Sunday brunch is served from noon-4pm. To book, tel 0191 245 5000
