Laura Emmerson dips a toe in at Kenny Atkinson’s new gaff
Back in Tudor times, when the banks of the river Tyne flowed close to the doors of the Quayside buildings, potage, simnel cake and ale featured on the menu of the day.
Fast-forward to the present day and we have Michelin-starred chef Kenny Atkinson and his new venture House of Tides gracing the Toon’s historic Quayside.
How things have changed! Kenny is serving a delectable six-eight course daily menus which this Girl about Toon was lucky enough to try on opening night.
Kenny and his wife and business partner Abbie have worked like slaves over the last few months to get this 16th Century former merchant’s house – one of the oldest on the Quayside – ready, and my, they’ve done well.
It’s true to its roots with its beautifully carved wooden bar, exposed beams and pared-down décor, while the cocktails are very much 21st Century. My opening night sampler of an unusual yet delicious take on a Cosmopolitan warmed the cockles of the heart, while the elderflower/vodka fizz added a little sparkle to proceedings.
The upstairs dining room affords lovely river views and with just 40 covers, it’s getting booked up for months head (I kid ye not…).
The most important bit – the food, obviously – is very much sourced from the local larder and stars heritage and micro veg from Ken Holland of Vallum Kitchen Garden; a man considered a master of his craft and beloved of starred and starry chefs and restaurateurs nationwide.
Kenny popped out of the kitchen as each of our eight courses was served to offer an overview delivered in his soft Wallsend accent The stars of the superb menu included mackerel with carrots, fennel, orange and smoked eel (a spectacular mix of pickled and sweet citrus flavours), while the sea bass with mussels, coriander and curry was simply sublime.
Kenny and Abbie have taken on young apprentices to wait on, which is a nice touch, and while this is certainly dining of the fine variety, it’s also relaxed. They’re keeping prices at a level which allows fine dining to reach the masses rather than the minority, so the six-course menu comes in at £45 plus £40 for the wine flight, and the eight-course menu is £60 with a £55 wine flight.
Dinner is served 6pm-9pm Tuesday-Saturday.
Recipe: Laura’s Roast Swede Wedges
House of Tides, The Close, Quayside, Newcastle, NE1 3RF
tel 0191 230 3720
www.houseoftides.co.uk
