Simple, brilliant cooking can do a lot of things – including brighten the darkest and wettest of February evenings. Take this piece of fish cooking at The Staith House for example – a beautiful piece of North Sea cod with flakes as big as your palm served with puy lentils, Staithy ham and mustard leaf – unfussy yet fantastic.
The Staith House, Low Lights, North Shields, NE30 1HF, tel 0191 270 8441, www.thestaithhouse.co.uk
