The flavour of spring

Newcastle Wine School owner David Harker suggests five wines to pair with lamb

Forget cheese, the perfect foil for red wine is lamb, which has the protein to bind with red wine’s bitter tannins. It also has fat that requires the wine’s acidity – and a tender, subtle taste that complements the dark fruit flavours of red wine. It is also a versatile meat, so pay attention to the cut and how it’s cooked, and choose a wine to match.

Roast lamb has a particular affinity with Cabernet Sauvignon. The world’s most widely planted red grape variety, it originates in the south west of France. The most prized examples are found in the Médoc region of Bordeaux, especially the commune of Pauillac, which is also renowned for its lamb. Traditionally the lambs grazed among the vines, creating a natural fertiliser for the wine maker.

A rack of Agneau de Pauillac served with your finest Bordeaux is food heaven. You’ll be amazed as the austere high acid, high tannin Cabernet Sauvignon transforms to melt in the mouth softness, allowing the wine’s cassis fruit to shine – just remember to avoid the palate-destroying mint sauce!

Bordeaux winemakers revolutionised the wines of Rioja by introducing the oak barrel ageing that is the hallmark of traditional Rioja. Slow-cooked, roast shoulder of lamb with red peppers is a regional favourite. The red fruit flavours and savoury oak character of a regal Rioja Reserva match perfectly with the rich smokiness of the lamb.

Grilled lamb chops, chuletillas, are a staple of traditional Spanish cuisine. Generously salted, they need a lightly chilled red from the Bierzo region, with floral aromas and flavours of pomegranate and cherry. If your lamb chops are from New Zealand, then go with a New Zealand Pinot noir.

Suckling lamb, lechazo, is another popular Spanish dish. The lamb is less than 45 days old and fed exclusively on its mother’s milk. The result is tender and delicate meat with a mild flavour that pairs well with a rosé wine. Try a characterful Spanish rosado with its typical deep pink colour and robust flavour.

The popular rosé wines of Provence also pair well with delicate pink lamb. However, for me, the best wines of Provence are not pink. The red wines of Bandol, grown on the limestone hills overlooking the Mediterranean port of Toulon, rank among the great wines of the world. Full flavoured, spicy and herb scented, they are the natural partner to butterflied leg of lamb studded with garlic and seasoned with anchovies and rosemary.

Sail east from Toulon and eventually you will reach Turkey, one of the earliest wine producing regions in the world – where vines were first cultivated 6,000 years ago. Turkey’s most-planted red grape variety is the fresh and aromatic Öküzgözü. Named bull’s eye for its large round berries, it is an authentic pairing for lamb kofta.

Cross the Aegean to Greece and the native grapes to try with lamb are the plum and pepper Agiorgitiko and the sour black Xinomavro of Macedonia. Both work well with a simple gyro, moussaka or souvlaki. With Kleftiko – slow-cooked lamb with garlic, lemon and oregano – try a white wine based on concentrated, citrus Assyrtiko from the island of Santorini. Whatever your choice, wine with lamb is central to Greek culture. From the Ancient Greeks, who would offer a cut of sizzling lamb to appease the gods to My Big Fat Greek Wedding and Aunt Voula – “He don’t eat no meat? It’s ok, I’ll make lamb.”

The Silence of the Lambs character Hannibal Lecter is the man for nose to tail eating. His recommendation of “liver with some fava beans and a nice Chianti,” works well enough with lamb’s liver. My suggestion is Dolcetto, a red wine from Piedmont. The name means little sweet one, although the wine is a dry, fruity red with flavours of black cherry, liquorice and a bitter almond finish.

When this year’s lamb turns to next year’s hogget, the meat takes on rich, gamey flavours best suited to a casserole. I recommend a robust, Syrah-dominated, peppery red from the Northern Rhône.

The joy of food and wine pairing is that it allows you to travel the world without leaving your dining table. Whether you are celebrating with your finest bottle or cracking open a midweek quaffer, there’s a regional lamb recipe and local wine that will pair perfectly.

The Wine List
Rack of lamb – Chateau Pibran 2019, Pauillac – Cavavin £58.50
Greek lamb stew – Domaine Skouras Assyrtiko 2022/23, Nemea – Majestic £15.99
Chuletillas – Peique Joven 2019, Bierzo – Kaltur £16
Lamb’s liver – Bersano Piandelpiete Dolcetto d’Asti 2022 – Waitrose £14.25
Mutton casserole – Yves Cuilleron Les Vignes d’à Côté Syrah 2022 –
Carruthers & Kent £18.99