The Grazer, aka Anna Hedworth, recreates the taste of the city
I found myself in London a couple of months ago, walking over the Thames to work. What began as a far-fetched idea for a spot of kitchen experience had become reality and here I was, about to start a week’s work at Rochelle Canteen, a lovely little place just off Arnold Circus, E2.
Based in the old bike shed of a former Victorian school which is now home to Shoreditch creative types, it’s open for breakfast, lunch, and events, boasts a high-end client list, and is owned by Margot Henderson (wife of Fergus, of St John group) and Melanie Arnold.
My first task was washing nettles, which allowed me to get used to the simple, bright white shed space that is half kitchen, half dining room, with a lean-to open-air prep area out the back and a little garden of raised beds growing salad and herbs.
I was there to learn, so I set to it…cut, chop, prep, observe, clean, watch, learn…
My first day’s work over, we all sat down for staff lunch, which included leftover rabbit faggots (so good), mash, salad, lemony roast chicken, followed by some leftover blood orange sorbet and golden syrup biscotti. I was (nervously) having a wonderful time.
The following days brought scone making, mango chutney, pickled prunes, ham and parsley terrine, a deep onion, thyme and Lancashire cheese quiche, sausage rolls, and more as I learned new techniques, recipes and ideas.
There was a day feeding fashion folk with a picnic-inspired feast of prawn cocktail, quails eggs, sausage rolls, poached chicken and cucumber sandwiches, and another with an elegant birthday party for 30.
One day I witnessed the creation of delicious roast chicken with crème fraiche and tarragon stuffed under its skin, the next, rib of pink beef with horseradish and beetroot salad created by the team who have collectively worked in some pretty prestigious kitchens around London from The River Cafe to Quo Vadis and St John.
Each day I left and found an interesting spot to write about my day. I frequented all the Shoreditch spots; Allpress Coffee one day, Albion Cafe another, and the Ace Hotel the next. I was the only one without a Macbook in the Ace Hotel, and people looked at me with my pen and notebook, but on my way out I realised they were all just on Facebook anyway…
The kitchen turned out some delicious food over the week. There was a rich black cuttlefish stew; a lovely chicken salad with lovage, capers and soft leeks; witch sole with a tartar sauce; and the lovely pear frangipane tart I’ve replicated here. Try it – for a little taste of Shoreditch.
More from The Grazer at www.the-grazer.blogspot.com
