Turn to page 49 of this publication and you will find something never before seen in appetite – two recipes which employ Primula cheese. The squeezy one, which comes in tubes, sometimes with bits of ham in it. Or chives. Even prawns, which you never had in the old days when everyone had a tube of Primula in their fridge. That would have been considered beyond sophisticated and certainly not for the likes of us.
But back to the point – those recipes on page 49. I put myself through all sorts of hell in deciding whether or not to include them. They were in, then they were out swiftly, then they were in again, but only for a short time (rather like an England cricket captain) because, well, Primula is, I reasoned, generally considered a bit naff in foodie circles and should most likely be substituted in these recipes for a good quality feta flown direct from some sixthgeneration artisan maker who lives in a cave on Lesbos. But then, I reasoned again, there is something appealingly simple and unpretentious about Primula which I rather enjoy. Like Arctic Roll or Carnation Milk – it’s a blast from the past which brings with it a comforting familiarity. It also has a texture all of its own, particularly when you cook with it, and, well, it just works sometimes, when you want something simple. I have a friend who carries a tube in her pocket when she’s out with her dogs. They always come back for it, sitting patiently at her feet as she offers each a quick squirt from the tube. My dog almost took her arm off when she offered it to him, and he is a canine of discerning taste. This note could be construed as an overly long apology for allowing the use of an unsophisticated ingredient in an appetite recipe. In fact, that’s exactly what it is. But now that I’ve come this far, I am inspired to emerge further from the Primula closet. I may even begin a Twitter campaign – #proudtolovePrimula. Do you think it has legs or have I finally lost the reputation for impeccable taste I once had? Answers on a postcard please. Meanwhile, I’m off to the fridge for some…well, you guessed it.